Shopping for a South Sea Pearl Necklace

Of all the pearls in the world, one is revered above the rest: the South Sea pearl. Grown in the deep waters off Australia's coast, it is prized for its brilliant white or gold shine. Shopping for South Sea pearls can be confusing, so here is what to look at before you choose.

Grading South Sea pearls

Pearl necklaces are graded by the Five S's: shine, surface, shade, shape and size.

• Shine (luster) is the way light reflects from and through the pearl.
• Surface. Because a pearl is organic, it often has small nicks, scratches, indentations or discolorations. A pearl with none is considered perfect, and makes up only 5–10% of each year's harvest.
• Shade. Pearls vary widely in color and overtone, and some shades are more sought after than others.
• Shape ranges from baroque to perfect round, and rarer shapes are more valuable.
• Size is the diameter of the pearl, measured in millimeters.

Together, these give the necklace its grade: A, A+, AA, AA+ or AAA. AAA is the highest, and the most desirable and valuable. See pearl quality and grading for more.

Luster

Luster is the most important factor in a pearl's value. It gives the pearl its iridescence and depth, and it comes from the thickness of the nacre, the coating that makes up the pearl. Very lustrous pearls have a deep, mirror-like surface and a bright shine; pearls with low luster look dull and foggy. South Sea pearls have thick, creamy nacre and are famous for their rich, silky luster.

To check luster, lay the strand on a table and look at it from about 20 inches away. The sharper and clearer your reflection in the pearls, the higher the luster.

Surface

As an organic gem, pearls often have surface marks, from nearly invisible to quite distinct. Flawless South Sea pearls are very rare and command a much higher price. The surface is graded by how many marks are visible and how widely they are spread, so examine it carefully before you buy.

Color

South Sea pearls range from white and silver to yellow and gold, with subtle overtones of pink, blue and green. Deep gold and white are the most desirable and valuable.

Golden South Sea pearls. The deeper the gold, the rarer and more valuable the pearls. Their warm glow flatters the complexion and feels luxurious.

White South Sea pearls are famous for their rich, creamy color, with rose or silver overtones. Silver overtones are more popular, but rose overtones are rarer and more valuable. A true white body color is worth more than ivory or cream, so be wary of sellers offering cream pearls as white at a higher price.

Consider the wearer's complexion: gold suits a darker complexion, and white or silver suits a fair one. Judge pearl color in natural light, ideally morning light. Fluorescent light makes pearls look bluish or yellowish, and incandescent light makes them look redder.

Shape

South Sea pearls come in perfect round, semi-round, circle, oval, button, drop and baroque shapes. Because symmetry is rare in nature, round pearls are valued most. A near-round strand gives a very similar look for considerably less, and a baroque strand is a stylish choice that works with anything from jeans to evening wear.

Size

The most common South Sea pearl sizes are 10–15mm. Pearls of 16–20mm are very rare and extremely valuable. Size is a matter of personal style: larger strands make a statement, while smaller ones suit everyday wear.

Millimeters and inches. Pearls are measured in millimeters. One inch is about 25mm, so a 10mm pearl is roughly 0.4 inches across.

Matching and workmanship

Poorly matched pearls with visible color differences spoil a necklace and sharply lower its value. When your necklace arrives, let it hang from your fingertip. Check that the line is straight, the knots are neither too tight nor too loose, and the finish is clean.

Graduation means the pearls are strung from smallest at the clasp to largest at the center. It is a traditional style that gives an elegant, tapering look.

Length

Choose a necklace length for the wearer and the look you want. A 16-inch choker is the classic look and suits high necklines. The most popular length is 17 inches, which sits just below a choker without hanging low. Longer lengths work for casual, business or evening wear.

Price, and where to buy

Because of their size and rarity, South Sea pearls can be expensive. Choose quality over size: a high quality strand is rare, holds its value and can last for generations.

Compare prices from online sellers and local stores; local dealers tend to charge considerably more. Buy from a trusted source, and check its return policy, customer support and reviews first.

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Questions about a strand? Call 1-800-801-3280, Monday to Friday, 10am–5pm PST.